World Heritage Site

Since by the year 2024 “everyone has been everywhere” and many have become serious about WH travel planning, it is hard to find a place and time for a WHS meet-up. The best chances are those special opportunities that unlock places where access isn’t common. This year we have Astraftis a.k.a. Stormur to thank for pointing out the opening up of Hôtel Tassel, one of the Major Town Houses of Victor Horta, on the 3rd of August.

It led to a meet-up of 8 WH travellers. Brussels is of course the hotspot among WHS hotspots, so community members residing in Belgium, Luxemburg, Germany, the Netherlands and the UK signed up. Hôtel Tassel is very little visited - 100 visitors a year were given when the WHS was inscribed in 2000: it is in private ownership and in daily use as an office. They usually open it once or twice a year via a guided tour. On the morning we visited, 5 groups, divided into French/Dutch/English language tours, were allowed in (20pax each).

Hôtel Tassel is the work with the most historic value among the 4 Horta Houses. ICOMOS started its review with the sentence “The Hôtel Tassel can be considered the founding work of Art Nouveau”. The tour started in the street in front of it - even when the house is closed to the public, it is worth it to walk by and admire the façade. It stands out among the neighbouring houses with its characteristic steel ornaments, undulating shapes and overall luxurious appearance.

Once inside, the guide spoke the dreaded words “no photos” and we had to put on plastic shoe covers. The most impressive part of the building lies just behind the stained glass door between the vestibule and the central hallway. The floor here is covered in fine mosaics. With a winter garden to the left and a deep, open view into the living spaces, it has a light feel. Upstairs there are a few fun features, such as a built-in projector stand with which the owner, professor Tassel, could entertain his friends by showing the photos he made.

The tour lasted over an hour and it was conducted well. Beforehand I was already a bit apprehensive as I had read that the townhouse wasn’t restored to current standards – it was bought in 1976 by the architect Jean Delhaye, after a long period when the building was split into small apartments. He tried to restore it to its former glory but without taking note of all the details and within financial limitations. Indeed, the level of authenticity was rather disappointing. The guide often had to say that they did not know how the original interior had looked when Tassel lived here (hardly any photos exist, many archives are still private). Of course, the original furniture isn’t there anymore, but door handles, wallpaper and wall paintings mostly have been redone too.

So while the visit was "interesting", this Horta house didn't end up as anyone's favourite among his inscribed houses in Brussels: the Horta House Museum (a good overview) and Hotel Solvay (more opulent and authentic) are "better". A special mention goes out to Astraftis, who now has “Horta complete” – he has been inside all 4 Major Town Houses. 

After the tour, we had lunch together, and it was good again to talk with like-minded people. People who immediately know what is meant when someone says “We’ve just visited the Spears”, or that you had to engineer your WHS milestone visit so that the WHC meeting doesn’t mess the numbers up. Or who do appreciate your Plantin Moretus T-shirt, immediately recognize faux marble as a new connection for the Horta Houses and can distinguish between the different mosaics of Paphos.

I hope to meet some of you at another place on another occasion. If you see an opportunity for a specialized visit to a WHS location, for a small private group or as part of a limited opening, please let me know and I will support it. I may even show up!