World Heritage Site

I just returned from 2 weeks in Senegal and The Gambia. The countries are fairly similar, logistically entwined and both are friendly and safe. I didn’t have high expectations, but I found enough to enjoy and the WHS of Djoudj, the Saloum Delta and the Bassari Country will appeal to anyone. Herewith are some tips for travelling to Senegambia as a WH Traveller.

Don't be put off by the scarce resources in English

There is frustrating little info in English available for an individual traveller to get around these countries. Recommended sources like the iOverlander app or the West-Africa Facebook group will only make you sad and I have deleted them already. The people active there seem only interested in road conditions and the peculiarities of border crossings, not in the countries themselves, and often display very questionable travel ethics. At least visiting the 8 WHS will give you a good overview of Senegal and The Gambia as they are nicely spread out and touch upon different topics.

No need to prebook

There is no need to book any transport or activities in advance (except for The Difficult Two, see below) – everything can be arranged on the spot by just asking around. The only issue is that the cost level of tours/transport will be the same as your accommodation – so as I choose upper-midbudget hotels (around 70 EUR), you will pay more for tours etc than at the budget places of course. 

Be satisfied with a short visit

One of the reasons that Senegambia did not appeal to me much is that there aren’t tons of things to see and do. It certainly lacks traditional sights, but it is worth it to visit a market (such as those at Farafenni or Serrekunda in The Gambia) or do a village walk with a guide or go fishing or any other activity close to the daily life of the local people. So rather make it a short visit (2 weeks max for both countries combined) than no visit at all. 

Choose a strategy for The Difficult Two

Niokolo Koba and Bassari Country lie in East Senegal, far from anywhere else. Whatever approach you use, it’s a long way there, it will be hot and dusty and amenities aren’t at the same level as in the North of Senegal. Options are:

• Outsource the problem by letting a Gambian tour company organize the trip for you. This is the one I choose, see my itinerary for more info.
• Contact the luxury NiokoLodge inside the park and arrange a stay, private transfers from/to Dakar and a 1 or 2-day tour to Bassari Country from there.
• Self-drive from Dakar. The roads are good, and the traffic behaviour isn’t crazy (goats and donkeys may cross the road though), but you have to be prepared for numerous checkpoints (some will demand money if you’re a toubab) and the possibility of a breakdown of the car, so I’d advise being with 2 people at least. Also, driving inside the park is tough and needs high clearance (and a full fuel tank).
• Public transport from Dakar. Cities in the East such as Tambacounda and Kedougou are easily reached by bus, but both WHS need additional private transport to reach & explore, and especially Niokolo Koba is expensive.

You need basic French for Senegal

At my hotels, they usually spoke some English and you will get from A to B. The main issue you’ll have without basic French will be enjoying the tours (and you will have many boat tours!), as the local guides anywhere in Senegal only can speak French (which already is the second or third language for them).