It seems that everyone managed to reach the summit of Taishan — except us. The weather was temperamental during our only full day there, with persistent rain and fog. Despite our effort to drive 16 kilometers from Hongmen (Red Palace Gate) to the other visitor center where the cable car starts, we arrived only to learn that service had been suspended due to poor weather, leaving many tourists stranded. We quickly decided to return to Hongmen and make the most of what could still be visited nearby. Fortunately, the Red Palace Gate and its adjoining temples and natural sceneries offered a rewarding experience given the conditions. Later in this review, I’ll also describe Dai Miao, the Temple to the God of Taishan, which has not yet been covered in previous reports.

Lower Section of Taishan around Hongmen

Staying overnight near Hongmen allowed me to witness where the pilgrims’ night hike begins. On the recommendation of Zos, I went there around 10 p.m. and watched hikers —some even with their dogs— preparing to conquer Mount Tai on foot. The area was already bustling with people warming up.

Hongmen is home to four ancient gates, starting from Yitianmen (First Door of Heaven) and extending to the Red Palace Gate, which also serves as an overpass (Flying Cloud Loft) connecting two historic Taoist temples: Puzhao Temple (originally from the Northern and Southern dynasties) and Hongmen Temple (Ming dynasty). The latter is dedicated to Bixia, the daughter of the god of Taishan. A little farther down from Yitianmen stands Guan Di Miao, a small temple worth visiting for its famed twisted “No. 1 Han Dynasty Cypress.” There is also a scholar tree there said to have been planted by Empress Wu Zetian. Not many visitors enter these temples as they occupy a seemingly minor position compared to those found on top.

The trail from the Red Palace Gate to Wanxianlou marks the beginning of the full ascent, beyond which lies the start of the notorious “18 Bends.” Along the route, signs point to cultural landmarks such as the Revolutionary Martyrs Memorial and stone inscriptions, as well as natural curiosities like the “barrel rocks.” On our way back, we followed the quieter riverside path, which offered a peaceful contrast to the busy “Emperor’s Path.” Confucius is believed to have stopped here to deliver a sermon. Despite the rain, the trail remained firm underfoot, and my 67-year-old mother managed it with ease.

Dai Miao: The Temple to the God of Taishan

At the foot of the mountain lies Dai Miao, the most important monument associated with Taishan, so much so that it is highlighted in three cultural criteria (and alluded to in the other three) used to establish the property's OUV. First built during the Han dynasty, the temple is the largest and best-preserved ancient complex dedicated to the mountain’s deity. Its main hall, the Hall of Heavenly Blessings (dating from 1008), houses the priceless 62-meter-long mural The Journey of the God of Taishan. Because of the rain, the hall was closed to protect the artwork from humidity —a protocol also followed during snow. Fortunately, I managed to persuade the staff to let me peek inside, on the condition that I take no photos. I gladly complied. Only a few visitors were present that day, which made the experience even more special.

Dai Miao is filled with cultural treasures: ancient steles, stone tablets, and several other more than 2,000-year-old impressively sculpted Han cypress trees. The cypresses deserve one's attention and admiration. From the raised pavilion in the cypress courtyard, visitors can enjoy panoramic views of the complex and of Taishan itself. The Qianlong Emperor left many inscriptions here. The most striking view of the mountain, however, comes from the rear gate, where we were lucky enough to see the sacred peak emerging through clouds and rain. One can also walk along the walls to reach some of its corner towers. Interestingly, there is a hotel within wall on the eastern rear side!

From the south, there is a forecourt enclosing the Yaocan Pavilion, where the initial sacrifices were made. Now, it serves as another shrine to Bixia. At the entrance of the walled section, beside the ticketing office, stands the Linglong Memorial Archway, a Qing-dynasty stone gate of exceptional craftsmanship—arguably the most exquisite I’ve seen in China. The walled complex also features three koi ponds and a bonsai garden near the exit. With its vast scale and architectural refinement, Dai Miao fully deserves its place among China’s Four Great Ancient Architectural Complexes, alongside the Forbidden City in Beijing, the Temple of Confucius in Qufu, and the Mountain Resort in Chengde (connection alert!).

It was at Dai Miao that Emperor Qin Shi Huang performed the first recorded prayer and sacrificial ritual for peace and prosperity in 219 BC. This was the shan (earth) portion of the fengshan rites, while the feng (heaven) ceremony—meant to receive the Mandate of Heaven—was held at the summit. The tradition was followed by several emperors, making Dai Miao one of China’s most sacred imperial sites. The last full fengshan ritual was conducted by the Zhenzong Emperor of the Song dynasty in 1012 AD; later emperors performed only partial ceremonies.

Overall Impressions

Despite the uncooperative weather, visiting Dai Miao was deeply rewarding. It offered a true sense of the spiritual and cultural essence of Taishan—a UNESCO World Heritage Site of immense historical importance. Taishan is the most sacred of the five holy mountains in Taoism, and Dai Miao is the most important temple in Taishan. Even without reaching the summit, exploring Dai Miao and hiking around Hongmen provided a memorable experience and a glimpse into its cultural and natural merits.

Despite the rain, our visit in Dai Miao lasted two hours, with very few other tourists in sight—a rare gift at such a celebrated site. For anyone visiting Taishan, I highly recommend combining a short hike around Hongmen with a visit to Dai Miao. Whether as an alternative to the summit climb or as the main agenda to a visit, this route offers a rich and satisfying encounter with Mount Tai’s lasting heritage. I brought home a nearly 1-kl. Taishan Shi Gandang stone as a meaningful souvenir from our visit.