Time of visit: November 2021

Duration of visit: 2 hours

Mode of transportation: by rental car, day trip from CDMX

Review and experience

My initial expectation of Xochicalco was just "a little known Mesoamerican pyramid site," especially after damaging our rental car en route in Cuernavaca and feeling grumpy because of the very dumb mistake I made, but I left impressed and with a new understanding and appreciation of the Epiclassical Period that I hadn't previous read about (unless I fell asleep during this section of the lecture in university). 

The UNESCO OUV text provides a great summary of the significance of Xochicalco, and I whole-heartedly agree with its OUV and basis of inscription. Its uniqueness lies in that Xochicalco is a well-preserved site from an interesting and messy period of Mesoamerican history.  During this period, the Epiclassical Period, large Classical Period cities of Teotihuacan, Monte Alban, Tikal, Palenque, and Calakmul had begun to collapse. Furthermore, despite its proximity to Teotihuacan, the strong presence of Mayan influence so far north fascinated me. Its position on top of a hill was refreshing, both from a militaristic history that carried significance to the site but also for the beautiful perspectives of the valleys below. I didn't get a chance to visit Monte Alban, but from the layout shown in the National Museum of Anthropology, I'd imagine it's somewhat akin to that site. 

Given our expectation for the site was low, we were continually impressed on our visit. The site just kept on growing and growing as each path led to another part of the complex, and under a strong sun, we felt like site was extending on its own to punish us for expecting so little of it! Nevertheless, we loved the experience - the pyramids were impressive, the residential and religious complexes were well preserved and told a fascinating narrative, and some of the carvings were just so beautiful! We didn't get a chance to visit the Observatory as COVID restrictions closed it, but we wrapped up our visit very, very happy, and learned to never again expect so little of a WHS Mesoamerican pyramid site!