Lima
The Historic Centre of Lima has been a leading city in the New World since its foundation in 1535 by Spanish conquistador Francisco Pizarro.
The centre covers both banks of the river Rimac and holds numerous religious and public buildings that date from the 17th and 18th centuries when Lima was the capital of the Viceroyalty of Peru. Its San Francisco de Lima is one of the most complete and outstanding convents of the colonial era.
Community Perspective: Lima gets a lot of mixed reviews: “There are colonial remnants if you look for them”, but it “lacks a truly iconic building, monument or landmark”.
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Ilya Burlak
My trip to Peru in May 2024 had two full-day bookends in Lima, which gave me plenty of time to explore the historic center. I share the opinion that you can find more impressive ensembles elsewhere. "Ensemble" is the key word here. While there are plenty of eye-catching details, they do not add up to a consistent overall picture. Nor is there a killer must-see feature, as has already been stated.
Plaza de Armas and the San Francisco Convent are the main attractions, and the library at Santo Domingo is as impressive as any old library elsewhere. With good timing and extra effort, you can step inside historic palaces, such as Palacio de Torre Tagle or Casa de Aliaga, which are not without interest. The balconies throughout the historic center are the main visual highlights. The Mestizo Baroque church portal at La Merced rivals that of San Francisco. Plus, there is a Modernist façade or two and plenty of splashes of color everywhere, as is common in colonial architecture.
Unlike some previous reviewers, I encountered the main plaza completely off-limits to vehicular traffic. At noon, there was a changing of the guard at the Presidential palace, which started as a slow and tedious ceremony but eventually broke into a 15-minute routine of military choreography, performed to the medley of popular songs anchored by El Cóndor Pasa (which I never knew was written by a Peruvian composer).
I was advised by a tour guide not to go across the river into the Rimac district with my big camera showing, so Puente de Piedra and Parque de Muralla were the northern limit of my walks. But I covered quite a lot of ground between the river and the southern boundary of the core area. In retrospect, just a couple of hours centered on the main plaza and nearby San Francisco, plus a stop at Plaza San Martín (mainly due to its homogeneous architectural makeup) should be enough to get a feel for the overall site; the rest comprises no more than ten percent of the value.
Read more from Ilya Burlak here.
Jay T
Lima is a great city to explore -- I must state that up front -- but the central historic district which composes the World Heritage Site was not as impressive to me as other historic districts I have visited in Latin America, such as Mexico City or Quito. Walking through the district in October 2018, I made brief stops in Plaza San Martin, centered around a statue of its eponymous hero on horseback, and the Iglesia de La Merced, with its neat baroque facade, before making my way to the more charming Plaza Mayor. This plaza turned out to be the most fascinating of the historical sites I saw in the city center (to include the San Francisco Convent); perhaps it was because the sun finally came out to shine on the yellow-walled mansions with box balconies surrounding the square, or perhaps it was the unexpected military band playing in front of the palace. That said, my best memories of Lima aren't from the historic center, but rather from exploring around the coastal Miraflores and Barranco neighborhoods, walking through the Magic Fountains at night, hiking around the Pachacamac pyramids outside the city, and enjoying an excellent dinner overlooking the ruins of Huaca Pucllana. Lima as a whole is certainly worth a visit.
Logistics: Lima's historic center is very walkable; it is also accessible from many other parts of the city by bus.
Clyde
I visited this WHS in June 2019 and stayed a total of 5 nights here using it as my base for several short and long day trips to other WHS. To be fair, I wasn't expecting much from Lima and I chose to visit during 'garua' season as it happens to be the best season for the highlights of Peru further South.
That said, I couldn't not compare it to other WHS I had visited 'close' by such as Quito and Panama Viejo which were definitely better overall and more of an ensemble than the Peruvian capital. Lima's biggest problem is traffic, which doesn't even spare the main attraction of this WHS, Plaza de Armas. I enjoyed my numerous visits to the lively square at different times of the day and overall I enjoyed it the most in the evening when several 'cultural shows' took place to celebrate Afro-Peruvian communities. My personal highlight were the ornate wooden balconies of the Archbishop's Palace (photo) and the Torre Tagle Palace.
Moreover, Lima lacks a truly iconic building, monument or landmark and the majority of the places of interest are merely worth visiting but nothing very special, certainly not of outstanding universal value or unique. The Cathedral with Pizarro's tomb, St Martin's square, San Marcos Mansion's interior, the Rimac district, the Barrio Chino, the Santo Domingo Convent and Museum, the Government Palace, etc. are worth seeing but none would be must-sees to justify a revisit (if not a visit in the first place!). The marble UNESCO inscription plaque can be seen under the yellow colonnade in the main square.
The Church and Convent of San Francisco and its 'catacombs' (no photography allowed) would classify as a must-see in my books but again no OUV and not unique, as much better ones exist all over Europe. This site was the main reason Lima got inscribed back in 1988 and although the rest of the 'historic centre' was later added in 1991 through an extension, in my opinion it is Peru's least interesting WHS for now. An old bar/restaurant (Cordano) just next to the Church of San Francisco is worth mentioning as it is like an institution for many locals who work in the heart of Lima's city centre and it's great for a pint of beer or a Pisco Sour!
Frederik Dawson
I was really surprised that many people did not like Lima, since I really enjoyed this city and maybe one of the most surprising places I have seen during my one-month trip in South America. Maybe because of this year El Nino, Lima I have seen was very bright with clear sky, so bright that even locals admitted that this kind of sunshine rarely happened. One of the most outstanding features of Lima’s historic center is the vibrant of architectural styles from pure colonial Spanish baroque, lovely art nouveau, and even neo-classical that almost make Lima to be little Madrid.
As a World Heritage Site enthusiast, Basilica de San Francisco was the first place I went to see as this basilica is the original reason why Lima has been put on the list. The grand Basilica is located in the center of the old district. The highlights of the Basilica are the Catacomb and the ceilings of the Basilica complex. The catacomb is very interesting however I am not a fan of dark tourism, so I was happy to just a brief look. But the ceilings of church and monastery are really beautiful from indigenous design to Moorish inspired dome. Really a nice place but I am not sure that from present ICOMOS standard, the site can be inscribed by their own merit, and I was far more appreciate from the rest of the old city. After Basilica, I went to see the City Cathedral, maybe I had expected too much for the main church of Spanish capital of South America, the interior is quite disappointing and too much plain compared to churches in Quito, maybe the most lavish part is the Tomb of Pizarro. The next must see of Lima is its central square, Plaza de Armas. The square is very lovely with nice buildings painted in yellow. The Presidential Palace is quite impressive. However, in my opinion the beauty of wooden box balcony on many buildings are the real gem to see. Each has its own uniqueness for its design and craftsmanship. One in front of the Former Governor Palace is exceptionally eye catching. The simple but very long one the building corner next the cathedral is also very unique. After seeing many fine churches, then I walked along many streets, and surprising discovered many nice art nouveau buildings and more buildings with those lovely wooden box balconies, and for me these styles of architecture become a symbol of Lima. Neo-classical buildings around Plaza San Martin are another big surprise for me, it really contrasts with yellow Plaza de Armas, as every building around the plaza are in white and in Spanish neo classical styles that remind me Palacio de Cibeles and many imposing buildings along the famous Calle de Alcala in Madrid. The walking street of Jiron de la Union is very lively with many shops and locals are in full of spirit of shopping.
While Lima was not chaotic liked I saw in Quito, because the city is far more expanded and modern, the city was still crowded with people and the traffic was really congested but again because of El Nino, I did not find the city to be polluted much as I expected, and after saw Miraflores area, while my local friend warned me a lot for safety issue, I found that Lima is such a great city with good food, nice landscape and load of culture to explore from Inca to colonial and vibrant contemporary art. Visiting Lima is a must for Peru, not because it is World Heritage Site, but because this city offer some of the finest urban lifestyle and food I saw and ate in the America.
Michael Turtle
I was surprised to bump into quite a few tourists in Lima who couldn't be bothered to go to the historic part of the city - they thought it would be boring and/or unsafe and preferred to stay around the beaches and the touristy areas. I think they missed out!
There are some really beautiful buildings here and you can easily spend a day checking them out and having a relaxed meal or drink in one of the squares.
My two highlights - and must sees for everyone - are the Monastery of San Francisco and the main cathedral. They are absolutely stunning inside. Don't miss the tomb for Pizarro in the cathedral.
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Els Slots
Lima was my first impression of Peru, and I was pleasantly surprised by it. The city nowadays has a quite prosperous feel to it, and a fancy new bus system that works like a metro (El Metropolitano) makes travelling around safe and easy. Even the fog that famously covers Lima for most of the year was replaced by a bright blue sky when I visited.
The Plaza de Armas is probably the most “central” place in the historic centre. It’s a major crossroads too, so it’s not totally relaxed for pedestrians. The square is covered on all sides by historic buildings. It is here that I first noticed the elaborate wooden balconies which are common in Lima’s old colonial structures. The archbishop’s palace has one of the best of all.
Next door is the Cathedral. It does look pretty standard Latin American Baroque from the outside, but inside there are several gems. The first chapel holds the bones of Pizarro and some beautiful clear mosaics. The Chapel of Our Lady of the Evangelization (renamed so by Pope John Paul II, we should try to make a Connection out of him as he has left his mark all over the globe!) is a masterpiece in turquoise and gold colouring. Other chapels have finely sculptured wooden altars, and the main altar is not to be missed either.
The best sight in the centre still is the Convent of San Francisco. Before the WHS got extended to include the whole of Lima's city centre, the nomination solely consisted of this convent. It is probably the most emblematic of Lima's history. You are not allowed to take any pictures inside, and that may attribute to the fact that it is not a very well-known site in general. But marvelous it surely is. And busy too - lots of school children, eager to see the underground ossuary I guess. Guides lead you through the large monastery complex. The damage from the various earthquakes that have struck Lima is still clearly visible here, some of the interior walls are leaning over. I especially liked the wooden ceilings here, one of which is in a grandiose Moorish style.
Read more from Els Slots here.
Kyle Magnuson
California - United States of America - 01-Mar-10 -
Updated Review: January 2024
For visitors to Lima, the new 2023 Map will come in useful! The map of the inscribed area is 18.5 ha larger than the 2013 map thanks to recent boundary modifications and includes some non-contiguous areas. When I visited in 2009 there was no sufficient map at all! Els first mentioned this boundary modification (and others) in her Fall 2023 Blog post.
Besides the sites around the The Plaza de Armas, the highlight of my exploration of Lima was the 'Basilica and Convent of Santo Domingo' (Museo Santo Domingo). The courtyard, the tile work, the library all made this historic site the most lasting memory of Lima for me. The Basílica and Convent of San Francisco and the San Agustin Church were also noteworthy stops.
A ICOMOS Mission Report in 2017 demonstrated Peru's progress in protecting archaeological sites in Lima such as the 'Site Museum Bodega y Quadra' which opened in 2012 and the 'Parque de la Muralla' which includes some of the archeological remains of Lima's City Wall. I was completely unaware of both sites in 2009.
Is there more to see than we thought in Lima? Would it improve our 'community perspective' at all? With the new map and specifically the 'Site Museum Bodega y Quadra' to visit, I think Lima deserves a return visit. There has not been any new reviews since 2019. Two other historic sites also sparked my interest. The Quinta Del Marques De Presa looks impressive (see World Monuments Fund link below). Lastly, the recent boundary modification is clearly attempting to include/protect some of the last remaining city walls of Lima, including the Bastion Santa Lucia (which is in dire need of protection).
- Centro Cultural de San Marcos, the Museo de Arqueología y Antropólogía UNMSM, and Museo de Arte (Graduate Room)
- Quinta Del Marques De Presa (newly added to the World Heritage site in 2023) *World Monuments Fund - "A Unique 18th Century Suburban Villa"
Read more from Kyle Magnuson here.
Rob Wilson
Whilst there are some interesting things to see in Lima, it is very difficult to believe that the city deserves its WHS status. The Monastary of San Francisco is very interesting, but much else stands out.
There are plenty of old colonial cities on the WHS list, and there are plenty that are not that are much nicer than Lima.
However, for WHS list tickers it is an easy site to 'bag' as it is the gateway for the rest of Peru, and the other sites in this wonderful country are magnificent!
Stephen Brooker
My memories of Lima are rather vague - having just had a nightmare journey from the UK. Yes it is a grubby, run down and in someplaces poverty wracked city.
But what I do remember was a fairly pleasant afternoon viewing the central colonial squares, which whilst nice are put in the shade by Arequippa. The Gold Museum was interesting not so much for the gold, but for the exquisite pre-columbian fabrics upstairs.
But for me the highpoint was the 'Lord of Sipan' at the National Museum, whose treasures were every bit as good as King Tuttankahmun's. Although I am told thes have now been moved to a purpose built museum where they were excavated.
Verdict - look beyond the grubbiness of the city itself and there are some real gems to be seen.
Solivagant
Is there no one out there prepared to write a (positive?) review of the “Historic Centre of Lima”? Lima has a poor reputation among tourists – I have not even been able to find a “good” photo of my own (from visits in 1973 and 84!) and thus present a rather mediocre one of the Plaza de Armas on a typical grey Lima day – looking very dull in the “garua” mist which covers the city for much of the year.
But, if you visit Peru (Which is a wonderful destination - it is perhaps my favourite country for its “variety” of sights - historic, ethnic, scenic (mountains, desert, and jungle) and wildlife) you will have to come to terms with Lima as the port of entry, the transport hub and home for a third of Peru’s population.
Does it justify its WHS status? Well there are colonial remnants if you look for them. Its cathedral in the Plaza de Armas contains the (possible?) remains of Pizarro, there are also a few mansions/houses and a fine monastery but Cuzco and Arequipa maintain more of a colonial atmosphere. I feel it must have been inscribed as much because of its place in colonial history as because of what remains now.
There are some good museums which will complement what you have already or are about to see up-country. I operate a rule of thumb scale of 0-3 days for assessing how long to give a city within a speedy touring itinerary (as a non “city lover” I do not award many the 3 days!). Lima certainly justifies its 1 and you would need another half day if you want to take in more than 2 museums.
It has a name for theft etc and it is the only city in the world where we have actually been recipients of the “gunge on the rucksack” trick – a “well meaning” passer-by points out some nasty mess which has somehow got onto your rucksack (placed there earlier by an accomplice) and offers to help you clean it off – if you take your rucksack off you will suddenly be surrounded by numerous others and your rucksack will disappear! We did not of course and it was quite nice to have the existence of this scam proven to us! It should be mentioned in fairness that this was an isolated incident and that the general atmosphere has been friendly on the 2 occasions we have visited the city.
It also has a name for being incredibly ugly, poor, polluted and crowded. Well, the shanty towns are a fact of life in developing countries and Peru is no different. It is also true that this aspect of Lima’s environment is not balanced by any pleasant scenery as in Rio or even Santiago, Bogota or Caracas. The outskirts are certainly dusty/dirty/unpleasant. There are some pleasant parks/squares in the centre to escape to and the suburbs (which some of the museums are situated in) are reasonably pleasant. You can also escape to the sea at the suburb of Miraflores
So, it is difficult to make a strong case for “Unlovely Lima” other than it is less bad than it is often painted! It is perhaps worth “trying to love” however!
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Site Info
Site History
1991 Extended
From the convent ensemble of San Francisco to the whole historic city centre
1988 Inscribed
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