Bernard Joseph Esposo Guerrero

The Philippines - 23-Mar-23 -

From what is written on what is available online regarding its nomination, South Africa did a good job with site selection and which crucial stages in the history of the movement should be included. The Nara Document on Authenticity plays a key role in developing the OUV, and it is this kind of nomination that we should see more moving forward: veering away from what can only be seen tangibly, but also focusing on what they represent and how people themselves and others can relate to it. 

Growing up in the 90s, the Apartheid was an issue that was hard to miss. But, I must admit I did not fully understand it until only recently, after three separate visits to South Africa. The sites are but representative sites, and having been able to go around the country during those cherished visits, they definitely are just "flag bearers" of a deeper, more sophisticated struggle and story of victory that is global in scope, effort, and effect. 

I visited (inside and outside) five sites on this recent trip namely, the Union Buildings, the Palace of Justice and the Rivonia Trial Site, the Freedom Park Memorial Site, the Constitution Hill and Truth & Reconciliation Commission, as well as Sophiatown forced removal site. In my first visit to SA in 2016, I also got to substantially explore District Six in Cape Town (my friend once owned a unit at the heart of Zonnenbloem), which is part of the nomination but is not reflected in the map here on our website - I guess because its coordinates are not provided in the nomination file? The recently opened and highly recommended Desmond Tutu Gallery in the Old VOC Granary downtown is also a good place to visit, and when combined with the District Six Museum form an invaluable "related literature" to better understand what this nomination is all about. I've also roamed around Pietermaritzburg and Mthatha before, both of which speak loudly about the fight for freedom, or of Mandela's narrative at least.

Given that international attention will be on these sites in preparation for its hopeful inscription this year, some sites have become political showrooms for the Subalterns for the world to see: in the Union Buildings grounds, the so-called "King of the First Nation," a San, set up an unmissable camp voicing out their unfortunate plight and near-non-existence in the present South African social framework, while in Church Square, where the Palace of Justice is located, LGBT booths are spread out giving free services to anyone in need. Interestingly, the monument of Paul Kruger at the heart of the square is fenced off, possibly to avoid vandalism by those who still harbor anti-colonial sentiments. The story of struggle and hope, indeed, continues! The opening of the D. Tutu Gallery can, likewise, be considered as a way of beefing things up.  

Constitution Hill keeps up with its nickname "Robben Island of Joburg" and I probably found it more insightful than the tour I had in Robben Island years ago (maybe because the story is more inclusive in CH? It also talks about the common people), while Sophiatown --like District Six-- stands as a memorial to the worst expressions of the Apartheid. Their humble museum housed in one of the only two original houses left on site is worth a visit (free entry), and the murals around its fence do not fail to capture the pain this once colorful and artsy neighborhood (birthplace of South African jazz) went through and its aspiration to move forward. These are just components of culture that cannot be reduced and downplayed. Also, it is a relatively safe corner of the notorious city, so I felt comfortable walking around.

Contrary to the previous comment, this nomination undoubtedly and rightfully has a place on the list, and deserves some time to be fully appreciated given that it is a serial site. The Gandhi sites in India, too. My appreciation to this nomination, as reflected in this review, stems from a cumulative 3.5 months stay in South Africa.