Bernard Joseph Esposo Guerrero

The Philippines - 12-Nov-24 -

Varanasi deserves a place in the list and it surprises me that no one has reviewed it yet. Being one of the oldest continually inhabited cities in the world, which remains to be a most central place of worship as the holiest place in Hinduism, its history and value to the world cannot be understated. It is also considered sacred in Buddhism and Jainism. Being historic is one thing, and being iconic is another -- the cityscape of Varanasi is easily one of the most recognizable. While it is easy to be critical about the site as to whether it is clean or not, the judgment, in my opinion, plays little to nothing to the cultural value it offers. It would be hypocritical to take against it some practices that make it unique, and admittedly the very reasons why many travelers go there to begin with. This is not to say that it does not need further "care" as it, by all means, does.  

On the day that I arrived in Varanasi was the day when 2015 April Nepal Earthquake took place and it was strongly felt in the city. I first went to Sarnath to visit one of the four most sacred sites in Buddhism, and then spent the rest of the day back in the center. The best way to appreciate what Varanasi has to offer is to take the sunset boat ride that leaves on various ghats in the afternoon. The boat tour takes you past the Darbhanga Ghat that is backdropped by the imposing BrijRama Palace, now a 5-star hotel; and on the other end, past the Manikarnika Ghat, where some cremations can be observed. The Jantar Mantar on top of the Mana Mahala is located behind the Shiv Satendra Prajapati Ghat. There are other ghats in between them, and it is difficult to figure out where one ends and the other begins despite being "...built in different historical moments...."

From the middle of the Ganges River, the riverfront looks like one massive fortress as the buildings stand beside each other, seemingly creating what looks like a formidable defensive wall. One incident that I will never forget was when I accidentally and carelessly blurted a negative comment when the river water splashed on me during the boat tour. An elderly Indian who heard me came and sat beside me and started giving me a lecture as to why I should not be reacting that way and that I should feel blessed as it is holy water. I should have known better. At dusk, everyone gathers in one of the few ghats that host the performance of the Aarti Pooja, considered as the highest profession of faith in the religion. We witnessed the interesting ritual at the Dashashvamedha Ghat, the most important of the 84 ghats, and it lasted for more or less an hour. It does make one wonder if the pooja is being carried out more as a public show than a religious act. Either way, it does not fail to impress and create a point as to how important Varanasi is for devotees and pilgrims. 

Varanasi has been sitting for a while in the Tentative List of India, previously under a different title. The 2021 name change in the proposal could be a telling sign that India might take its nomination more seriously moving forward. One of the joys, too, in being in Uttar Pradesh is its distinct regional cuisine and Varanasi is well-praised for its offerings, so do not miss trying their local dishes.